Introduction to Digital Infrared Photography

Kindly written by zero-gravity

I’d been taking IR photos for a few years before I purchased my first digital camera, the Canon G6, and I was very surprised when I heard that digital cameras are sensitive to the infrared spectrum. When you first glance at an infra-red shot you might simply think it is just another black and white photo until the subtle effects start to show. Foliage seems almost snowy and the skies are usually very dark – almost black. Most IR shots are grainy by nature – and if you are using a digital camera this means there will be a certain level of noise. IR photos certainly tend towards the dramatic.

Most digital cameras are designed to block the IR spectrum but there are a number of them that still allow enough through so that with a few small purchases, you can be quickly trying your hand at taking infrared photos.

One of the best things is that IR with a digital camera takes a lot less work than shooting IR with film. No loading and unloading the camera in the dark. It’s a different technique and one I really enjoy.

Equipment

First, before you buy anything check around to see if your camera is sensitive to IR. There are a number of sites around that have tested a lot of the cameras out there and have posted the results. Check around and see.

You’ll need a camera that can take a filter – for the G6 that meant getting an adaptor – but it was a great investment. One advantage of a prosumer camera like the G6 is that it will allow you to preview your shot. The second very necessary piece of equipment is a tripod or at least a monopod.

I use the Hoya R72 IR filter. It’s a very dark red, near-black filter. If you are an owner of a digital SLR you’ll use it like any other filter. This dark filter is going to mean that you’re likely to need longer exposures as well and that’s why the use of a tripod is almost critical.

What to shoot

Like most IR photographers I tend to shoot landscape shots with some ventures into still life. The reason for this is fairly simple. Most people in IR tend to look ghostly – pure white skin – and black eyes. This can be fun – but one of the other problems encountered is the need for the longer exposure – and I’ve always found it hard to get someone to be still for the length of time required.

When to shoot

It is usually best to shoot on bright, still days – this will allow you to use a lower ISO (I use ISO 50 for most of my shots, and sometimes ISO 100). Because IR photos tend to be noisy, the idea is to shoot with the lowest ISO to minimize the noise. Usually you will want to shoot with the sun higher in the sky and at your back as well to get the really dark, dramatic skies.

I’ve found that shooting in the middle of summer generally gives me some of the best shots. There tends to be less wind, the sun is bright and the vegetation is lush.

Color IR

When you go to shoot in color you’ll notice your shots come out a glorious eye-sporking red. It wasn’t until someone mentioned it on a forum years ago that the trick to shooting color IR is to shoot in RAW format, and then do your adjustments, that I was able to get the colours I had admired. This will give you the chance to tweak your shots and get some of the strange purple and red hues as you can see in the photo “Under an Infrared Sky”. One of my favorite shots though is a garden shot, with much more subtle and surreal colors: “Garden Path”. (www.zero_gravity.fotix.net – under the Infrared Gallery). The grain and subtle texture of the shot work very well along with the paler hues.

Common Problems

Have I mentioned the noise issue more than twice? It can be one of the biggest complaints with IR shots. Again, shooting with a low ISO you’ll have much better luck in keeping the shots clean. You can always expect some noise in IR though unless you’ve got a modified camera. There are some companies online who will modify your camera so that it can shoot in infrared, but usually this means the camera is then voided of warrantee.

Over-exposure can be a real problem but the use of bracketing a shot – will at least help with this. Try taking a photo with different exposure times – since it is digital at least you don’t have to worry about wasting film. I find it much easier to under-expose a shot than to work around an over exposed photo. All the shot’s I’ve taken with a few digital cameras require adjustments in Photoshop, at the very least some tweaking to adjust the contrast.

There are some cameras that evidently have hot-spots – like the digital Rebel XT – depending on the lens used. If you know someone who has a Hoya R72 filter ask to borrow it and see how your shots come out. Some of the Rebel XT’s don’t seem to have such a problem.

Finally, since I’ve mentioned noise so often there’s a great little program called Neat Image available. I’ve not really used it often but it can really help for those people who find the noise bothers them a lot.

Links Of Interest

My Infrared Gallery
http://www.zero_gravity.fotix.net/browse/Infrared_Photography

Neat Image
http://www.neatimage.com/

Technical Aspects of IR Photography
http://www.cocam.co.uk/CoCamWS/Infrared/INFRARED.HTM